What Is That Burning Smell from the Furnace
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What Is That Burning Smell from the Furnace? How to Prevent Unpleasant Odors

ByTimothy Dale

As temperatures start to drop, homeowners make the switch to heating to ensure the home remains comfortable. However, the warm air can often be accompanied by a burning smell that quickly permeates your space. However, there are ways to prevent this odor in the first place and other methods for handling unfamiliar odors, like a musty or electrical burning smell. Use this guide to discover how to prevent the furnace smell when you turn it on for the season, other mysterious furnace smells you might encounter, and when to call a professional. Why Does the Furnace Smell When You First Turn it On? In most cases, when a furnace smells after being turned on for the first time in the season, there’s no need to worry. The smell of burning dust should fade quickly. But, if the smell persists or you notice a different smell from the furnace, it could be due to a serious issue with the HVAC system. Consider these common reasons why the furnace may smell when you first turn it on. Burning dust smells are relatively common when first turning on the furnace for the season. This is typically due to a buildup of dust on the burners, heat exchanger, air ducts, and other heating unit components. Generally, this odor will fade quickly as the thin layer of dust is burned away. Musty odors coming from the furnace usually indicate that there is mold or mildew trapped inside the HVAC system. It may be in the heating unit, the ductwork, the furnace filter, or even the humidifier pad. Electrical burning smells are not normal and should be addressed as soon as possible. Sometimes the smell is due to a foreign object stuck in the ductwork or vents of the HVAC system, but on other occasions, this smell may be due to burned or frayed wiring, or can also be a result of the furnace overheating. Rotten egg scents produced by the furnace are a sign of a gas leak. Since natural gas is odorless, the gas companies add a sulfur-based chemical to give off the distinct odor of rotten eggs as a way of warning homeowners that there is gas in the vicinity. Gas is flammable, putting the home at risk of a fire or an explosion, and it’s also harmful if inhaled, so you should vacate the home immediately. Smoke smells can occur if the exhaust vent is blocked, forcing the combustion exhaust from the furnace to escape into the home. This smell may also be a result of flammable material inside the ductwork, near heating vents, or too close to the furnace. Animal odors are often due to pets. Pet hair and dander are taken into the ducts through the cold air return, where they will remain in the ducts. Every time the furnace turns on, it recirculates pet hair and smells, until you have your ducts professionally cleaned. It’s also not unheard of for a pest to enter the ductwork of the home, where droppings and hair will produce a foul odor when the furnace is turned on. Oil smells can indicate that the filter on the furnace is clogged. This is typically due to a problem with the filter, which can be easily resolved by an experienced DIYer or a professional HVAC tech. Sewage stenches are powerful and off-putting, but can also help identify when there is a problem with the home sewage system. If the furnace starts to smell like sewage when it is first turned on then there may be a broken wastewater line or an open sewer line nearby that will need to be located and repaired. Chemical smells from the furnace should not be ignored. This could indicate that the heat exchanger is broken or not operating properly, which may lead to the release of odorless, invisible carbon monoxide gas; a known risk of gas-based heating systems. How to Prevent the Furnace Smell When You Turn It On Burning Dust Smell While the burning dust smell that comes from the furnace when it is first turned on is relatively harmless, that doesn’t mean you need to just deal with it each year. Instead, you can have the furnace and evaporator coil cleaned by a professional before the cold season begins. DIYers with enough experience and confidence can clean the evaporator coil in a furnace on their own by turning off the furnace, removing the access panel, then gently cleaning the coil with a soft cloth or brush, while being careful to avoid damaging the fins. Wipe down the condensate pan and the surrounding areas, then replace the panel and turn the furnace back on. You should also take this opportunity to replace the air filter, where dust might be trapped from the previous season. If the burning dust smell persists, then it’s recommended to turn off the furnace and contact an HVAC professional to inspect and repair the HVAC system. Musty Odors Musty odors are typically produced by mold and mildew. In some cases, the mold or mildew is attached to dust or other debris, so it burns off relatively quickly, but if the musty odor doesn’t go away, then you should start by replacing or cleaning the air filters. Similarly, you can replace or wash the humidifier pad using a solution of water and vinegar to kill any mold or mildew. However, if the musty odor still

How to Seal Windows
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How to Seal Windows and Reduce Energy Bills

ByKamron Sanders

Poorly sealed windows allow heat to enter your home during the summer and cool drafts during the winter. As a result, your HVAC unit works overtime to maintain your desired temperature, leading to high energy bills. Here, we explain how to seal windows with various materials and methods including caulk, weather stripping, plastic shrink-wrap, and draft stoppers. While replacing your windows with new energy-efficient ones is the most effective way to stop the draft and lower your utility bill, it’s not always an option. Luckily, there are several ways to seal your existing windows to help prevent air transfer between the interior and exterior. Caulk Around the Windows Caulking around windows is sometimes all it takes to reduce their draftiness. It’s also one of the most cost-effective ways to seal a window, as caulk is relatively inexpensive. Caulk is ideal for filling small cracks around various window components. It can create a watertight and airtight seal that remains flexible for years after application. This flexibility ensures the caulk’s seal won’t crack due to natural expansion and contraction. If your window has gaps larger than 1/2 inch, caulk may not work well. If these gaps are deep, expanding foam insulation designed for window and door use may be necessary to fill the cavity. Once the foam is fully expanded, you can trim it flush using a sharp knife and cover it using a wood trim piece or a bead of caulk, whichever is more appropriate for your window. Install Weather Stripping Weather stripping is useful for sealing around the moving components of a window, such as beneath a moving sash. Whereas caulk will seal the joint, weather stripping allows you to open and close the window, sealing the gap tightly once the window is closed. Most foam weather stripping has one sticky side so it can be adhered to the fixed portion of the window without sticking to the moving one. To promote a strong bond between the foam weather stripping and the window sash, remove dust or debris, thoroughly clean the window with a degreaser, and dry the surface. Seal with Plastic Shrink-Wrap To create a temporary airtight seal around your window, look for plastic shrink-wrap window insulating kits, which include double-stick tape and sheets of plastic shrink-wrap. To seal a window using plastic shrink-wrap, follow these steps: Clean the window. Apply strips of double-stick tape on all four sides of the window frame. Cut the plastic sheeting slightly larger than the window pane. Place it on the pane, pressing it against the double-stick tape to secure it. Use a hairdryer or a heat gun on low to shrink the plastic, starting on the perimeter and moving across the shrink-wrap until it’s perfectly taut. Clean up the excess plastic using a utility knife. If you’re planning to shrink-wrap all of your windows, leave at least one window in each room uncovered for a potential fire escape. Insert Draft Stoppers Store-bought draft stoppers can be great for stopping drafts with minimal effort and without altering the window. There are various styles of draft stoppers tailored for different types of windows and doors. Many draft stoppers include two tubes that can be cut to the window’s width and then slid inside a piece of fabric. The fabric is then slid beneath the window sash. Once the window is closed, the two tubes are tightly held on each side of the window. While this style of draft stopper can be effective for windows, they are often used on doors. A more effective style of a window draft stopper is designed to stick along the bottom edge of the window sash. Once the sash is closed, the overhanging rubber material compresses against the window frame to prevent airflow. The most effortless style of draft stopper that can be used to reduce a window draft looks like a long pillow. You simply lay it at the bottom of the window to block the draft. How to Identify a Drafty Window If the source of your window draft isn’t obvious (such as a visible crack), it can be hard to pinpoint where the issue lies. Here are some useful ways to identify a window draft. Turn off any fans and other air movers. You may have difficulty identifying your draft because air is moving from sources like fans, dehumidifiers, HVAC systems, and more. Light a candle and place it next to the window. Blow the candle out and watch the smoke. The candle smoke will blow if it’s positioned near the draft. This method may take a few tries and it can be helpful to trace the window’s border with the candle. Some lightweight curtains will move when blown by a window draft. Drafty windows are prone to condensation buildup. If you have just one window with condensation on it, there’s a good chance it’s the source of the draft.