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Home Exterior Mistakes That Designers Want You to Quit Making

ByAmy Panos

HOME BUYERS – To get the best exclusive listings visit www.vreg.ca and go to “EXCLUSIVE DEALS”

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The exterior of your home is a billboard. It tells the world about you, your personal style, and what you value. So, of course, you want to get it right. Yet great-looking exteriors are made up of so many elements—architectural style, color palette, lighting, landscaping—that it’s easy for one or more to be off without even realizing it. Here, design pros share their pet peeves about home exteriors in order to help you identify and fix what is keeping your house from looking its best.

1. Going Too Small with Light Fixtures

“The number one problem—and I don’t even have to think about it—is the lights being the wrong scale for the house,” says designer Hanna Shiplett of Eden + Gray Design Build. Because many houses have prominent garage doors on the front facade, the lights flanking them need to be large enough to balance them. Shiplett recommends fixtures that are at least 12 inches tall. For a more modern fixture that hugs the wall tightly, go as large as 20 inches.

The good news is that lighting is one of the easiest exterior problems to remedy by installing new fixtures. “You have to start with where your lights are already roughed in because if you have brick or stone, it’s difficult to change that,” Shiplett says. Make sure the larger fixture doesn’t end up too low or sticking out too much based on where it needs to connect to the electrical wiring.

2. Using Too Many Materials

Architect Todd Hotchkiss always cringes when he sees a house where too many different building materials and surfaces have been used, and in a way that’s not realistic. “Materialitis” is his term for this common problem. “I see a lot of people try to put brick or stone on their house without any care as to whether it looks like masonry material,” he says.

Instead of being used solely as decoration, a material should look like it’s part of the construction of the house, even if it’s not. “It should look like if the house burned down, the only thing that would be left would be the stone,” he says. One of his tricks for achieving that illusion is to extend brick several inches around a corner to give the impression of a solid brick wall when it’s really just a surface covering.

Interior designer Amanda Reynal also stresses the importance of using building materials thoughtfully, which often means using fewer and repeating them. “Sometimes we get into trouble when we just use a material once and we don’t use it in a big way,” she says. “We just use it as an accent, then we don’t repeat it anywhere else. And then it just feels sort of out of left field instead of intentional.”

3. Not Highlighting Your Front Door

If you’re not making your front door into a wow moment, you’re missing an opportunity. “Do a really cool finish on that front door, something that introduces your personality and the personality of the house,” Shiplett says. That might mean a heavy-duty old-school wooden door with a stained finish or a high-gloss paint color that stands out from the street. “Painting your front door and changing the color is just not that big of a deal. It’s not that much money, and it can have a really great impact,” she says.

If it’s in your budget and space constraints, you might want to consider replacing your door with a larger one. In her remodeling practice, Shiplett is seeing clients swap out single doors with sidelites for double doors. “There is usually just enough space,” she says.

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4. Getting the Scale of Your Landscaping Wrong

“A lot of times we forget to acknowledge the scale of our landscaping in comparison to the house,” Reynal says. “Sometimes it’s too big. There could be some big, beautiful trees in front of a house, but they block the house and don’t frame the elevation well,” she says. “It can be overwhelming for the exterior of the home.”

Landscape elements that are too small are just as problematic. “Too many small flowers and plants in front of a house can sort of trivialize the architecture and make it look a little bit too sweet,” Reynal says. “It’s appropriate for a small Nantucket or Cape Cod cottage, but often a bigger house needs appropriate landscaping and shrubbery to complement that and not become too many broken-up little areas of landscaping.”

5. Overlooking the Path to the House

“The other thing I wish people would do more often is try to enhance the inside-outside transition,” Hotchkiss says. “You have to use the space between the street and the house in a way that draws you into the house. Try to think of your front yard as a series of spaces.” Define those spaces with pergolas, pathways, trees, and plantings. “Give yourself and your guests an in-between space so that they can shed all the stress of travel and get ready to enter the house,” he says. “That’s why I always love porches.”

6. Ignoring Your Existing Architecture

“I think sometimes we try and reinvent exteriors instead of working with what we’re given, and we make it more difficult than it needs to be,” Reynal says. “If you live in a Colonial house, for example, look at what a classic center hall Colonial house exterior might be and then tailor it to your needs. Keep in mind some of the precedents that have been set before and don’t try and reinvent the wheel or add something super funky or contemporary.”

Shiplett encounters the same problem. “I see people painting their house black and white when it doesn’t fit the architectural style of the home,” she says. “It’s wanting to have that modern farmhouse look but not paying attention at all to the house they have and not addressing the architectural features it would take to get it to a place where it could be that style.”

The key is to understand what architectural style your home matches most closely and then look for solid, often historical examples of what that style looked like in the past. “If you want a refresh, at least study what would have been a fit for that style,” Shiplett says.

Call Stan at 604-202-1412

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    10 Signs You Need to Replace Your Windows ASAP

    ByTimothy Dale

    On average, windows will last between 15 to 30 years, though the exact life span depends on several factors, including the type of glass, the quality and material of the frame, the local weather, and whether the window is installed properly or not. Regardless of these factors, windows and window frames can break or begin to show signs of wear, indicating that you need to repair the windows or invest in an upgrade. However, before paying for costly repairs, read on to learn 10 signs you need to replace your windows instead. 1. Visible Damage One of the most obvious signs that you should consider replacing the windows is if there is visible damage. While you can pay for the windows to be repaired, it’s important to consider their current age. Newer windows might be worth the cost of the repair, but it’s typically more cost-effective to replace older windows that are visibly damaged. Visible damage can include broken glass, a broken window frame, or even a broken seal that causes fog or moisture to accumulate between the panes. Not only can this damage put the home at risk of wood rot and mold growth, but it also detracts from the appearance of the home, reducing its value and negatively impacting the curb appeal. 2. Difficult to Operate Windows are designed to function without a lot of effort. You should be able to lock, unlock, open, and close the windows with relative ease, but as windows age, the frame might start to swell, and the hardware can rust or become bent due to regular use. When this occurs, you can pay to have the window hardware replaced or even have the frame repaired, but the same issues might happen again in a few years. Instead, it might be better to replace the window entirely to ensure you have another 15 to 30 years before you need to worry about the windows again. Keep in mind that while you can replace just one window at a time, it’s often better to invest in replacing multiple windows at once for a lower overall cost. 3. Room Feels Drafty While windows are designed to allow fresh air into the home, this doesn’t mean you always want outside air flowing into your house. If you notice that the room is drafty or that air seems to be leaking through the windows when they’re closed, this is typically a sign that the seal around them is broken, bent, or otherwise deformed. Replacing the seal will fix this issue, so if your current budget is too tight for a full window replacement, this might be a short-term solution. However, as the window ages, other problems will begin to occur, so this could be a good time to replace the window entirely. 4. Frames Feel Soft Some windows have metal window frames, but there is also a wide variety of wooden window frames. After years of exposure to rain, sleet, hail, and snow, the wood frames could begin to rot or break down, causing them to feel soft or spongy to the touch. This is a clear indicator that you will need to replace the windows and frames before the moisture begins to seep into the home. Similarly, if your window frames are made of metal, look for signs of rusting, chipping, or even crumbling, which typically indicates that the window frame is gradually breaking down. If the frame is no longer able to hold the glass or to keep moisture outside, it puts the home at risk, so plan to replace the windows as soon as possible. 5. High Energy Bills Home energy bills can be affected by a wide variety of issues around the home, like low-efficiency appliances, poor insulation, aging heating and cooling systems, or faulty windows. Since the furnace works to keep the home warm in the winter, and the air conditioner is primarily responsible for keeping the home cool in the summer, any drafty areas of the home where heat can flow freely through the walls reduce its overall efficiency. Faulty windows with loose or damaged seals can contribute to rising energy bills by forcing the heating and cooling system to work harder just to maintain the set temperature indoors. If you suspect this is the case, you can have the window seals replaced, though depending on the age and condition of the windows, it might be better to invest in a full window replacement to resolve the issue for the foreseeable future. 6. Water Leaks Through the Windows Windows are made to keep rain, sleet, hail, snow, and other sources of moisture outside the home, so if you notice that water seems to be coming in through your windows, this is a sign that you need to replace your windows as soon as possible. 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    What Is That Burning Smell from the Furnace? How to Prevent Unpleasant Odors

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    As temperatures start to drop, homeowners make the switch to heating to ensure the home remains comfortable. However, the warm air can often be accompanied by a burning smell that quickly permeates your space. However, there are ways to prevent this odor in the first place and other methods for handling unfamiliar odors, like a musty or electrical burning smell. Use this guide to discover how to prevent the furnace smell when you turn it on for the season, other mysterious furnace smells you might encounter, and when to call a professional. Why Does the Furnace Smell When You First Turn it On? In most cases, when a furnace smells after being turned on for the first time in the season, there’s no need to worry. The smell of burning dust should fade quickly. But, if the smell persists or you notice a different smell from the furnace, it could be due to a serious issue with the HVAC system. Consider these common reasons why the furnace may smell when you first turn it on. Burning dust smells are relatively common when first turning on the furnace for the season. This is typically due to a buildup of dust on the burners, heat exchanger, air ducts, and other heating unit components. Generally, this odor will fade quickly as the thin layer of dust is burned away. Musty odors coming from the furnace usually indicate that there is mold or mildew trapped inside the HVAC system. It may be in the heating unit, the ductwork, the furnace filter, or even the humidifier pad. Electrical burning smells are not normal and should be addressed as soon as possible. Sometimes the smell is due to a foreign object stuck in the ductwork or vents of the HVAC system, but on other occasions, this smell may be due to burned or frayed wiring, or can also be a result of the furnace overheating. Rotten egg scents produced by the furnace are a sign of a gas leak. 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    6 Ways to Unstick Windows That Have Been Painted Shut

    ByKamron Sanders

    Credit: Getty Images / Vicki Smith Opening windows that have been painted shut can prove challenging, as dried paint creates a surprisingly strong hold. Whether it was a simple window painting mishap or your home got the “landlord special,” where every surface was covered with layers upon layers of white paint, you’ll need to break the seemingly impenetrable seal that the dried paint creates. To help you get started, this guide explains various methods for opening a window that has been painted shut, along with the necessary safety measures to use. How to Unstick Windows That Have Been Painted Shut To open windows that have been painted shut, you need to break through the paint holding the window shut. While this may sound simple, it can be difficult. Here are a few different effective methods, but you need to choose the one that is right for your situation. For example, if you want to preserve the paint on the window, choose a method that disturbs it as little as possible. 1. Apply Heat A heat gun is useful for warming and loosening the paint bond, which allows you to easily scrape it off the window and remove it from the sash so you can open the window. It can be challenging to pinpoint precisely where to apply the heat, so you should only rely on heat application if you aren’t looking to preserve the surrounding paint. Before using a heat gun, ensure there’s nothing nearby that can be damaged and refrain from using heat on plastic window sashes, as they may warp and melt. 2. Score the Paint With a Multitool Painter’s multitools, such as a 5-in-1 tool, are effective for scoring and cutting out paint that’s holding a window shut, as they’re both strong and sharp. However, the thicker blade might damage the surrounding paint, so choose this option only if you’re looking to replace the surrounding paint. 3. Score the Paint With a Utility Knife If you want to preserve the paint finish while also unsticking the window, scoring the seal with a razor blade or a utility knife can offer the cleanest cut. However, if your paint is old, brittle, or has several layers, it can be difficult to score it cleanly. If this is the case, a heat gun can be effective for warming and softening the paint, allowing you to score it more easily and cleanly. To preserve the paint on the window, avoid applying too much direct heat, as it can cause the paint to bubble and compromise its integrity. 4. Break Deeper Seals With a Putty Knife If you’ve scored the paint along the window sash, but the window still won’t budge, dried paint may have seeped deeper into the sash. To break this invisible paint’s hold, place a thin, flexible putty knife in the gap and lightly tap it with a hammer. Work your way around the window until you’ve fully broken the seal and the window opens. If the window has been painted shut, there’s a good chance it hasn’t been operable for years. To aid in future operation and prevent your window from getting stuck again, apply a spray lubricant, such as silicone spray, to the tracks. 5. Use Wood Shims to Open the Gap As you work your way around the window, slide thin wood shims into the gap to slightly hold the gap open, lightly tapping them into place with a hammer if needed. Be careful not to push the shims in too far, as this may stress the window and could even break the glass. 6. Score the Outside of the Window Still no luck? If you haven’t already, check the outside of the window to ensure it hasn’t been painted shut as well. Window Paint Removal Safety Tips Before attempting to remove paint, take the necessary safety precautions to keep you and those around you safe during the paint removal process. Test for lead paint. Removing lead paint requires a higher level of precaution . Most experts recommend skipping lead paint removal and instead opting for encapsulation, so your safest bet may be to score the paint enough to open the window without removing it altogether. Wear the appropriate safety gear. Whenever removing paint, wear the proper respirator to protect against both particles and fumes. Additionally, wear safety glasses and gloves when working with tools for paint removal. Use caution when scoring paint. Whenever you’re using a blade to score paint, use extreme caution and do so slowly and steadily. Moving too quickly or applying too much force may result in injury or damage to the surrounding materials. Consider masking the glass. When working around windows with hand tools, there’s a risk of broken glass. To protect your windows, consider taping cardboard to cover the glass while you work.

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    6 Reasons Your Lights Are Flickering, Plus Easy Fixes

    ByKamron Sanders

    Credit: Getty Images / Kateryna Kukota Lights flickering in your home might seem like a cause for concern, especially if you’re unfamiliar with how home electrical systems work. While flickering lights can stem from a major electrical problem, it is more likely that the issue is related to the bulb or switch. However, it is essential to identify the cause of the flickering lights so you can rule out any serious electrical issues. Learn the most common causes of flickering lights and how to fix them, as well as when it’s advisable to call an electrician. 6 Potential Causes of Flickering Lights Before calling an electrician, try troubleshooting these potential causes of flickering lights. 1. Bulb Issues One of the most common causes of flickering lights is an issue with the bulb. Fortunately, bulb issues are also the easiest fix. Solution: If you suspect the light bulb is burning out, you can easily test your theory by replacing the light bulb. If the new one doesn’t flicker, you’ve likely solved the problem. 2. Switch Issues Light switches see a lot of use. While premium switches may last a lifetime, budget light switches are likely to fail over time. In this case, you might notice the lights flicker when you touch the switch. Solution: If you suspect the light switch is causing the flickering lights, replacing the switch should solve the problem. To do so, turn off the electricity and the circuit breaker box, remove the switch plate, and uninstall the light switch. Wire and install the new light switch exactly like the old one, reinstall the switch plate, and restore the power. 3. Fixture Issues Less commonly, the light fixture itself may be to blame. If there are loose connections or corrosion in the fixture, the lights may flicker. Solution: You can attempt to repair the fixture by fixing the connections or removing corrosion, especially if it’s a premium fixture. However, it may be more beneficial to replace cheaper light fixtures. 4. Incompatible Bulb or Dimmer Switch If you’ve ever shopped for light bulbs, you may have noticed language on the box referring to dimmer compatibility. This is because some types of bulbs and dimmer switches don’t play well together. If you install a light bulb that’s incompatible with the light switch, it will likely flicker as a result. Solution: To ensure your light bulb is compatible with your switch, check the bulb’s specifications before purchasing a replacement. If you’re having trouble finding a light bulb that won’t flicker due to dimmer incompatibility, your best bet is to try a traditional incandescent light bulb. However, they may be difficult to find in some areas due to government restrictions on energy usage. Even LED light bulbs that specify dimmer compatibility can sometimes flicker when tied to a dimmer switch. 5. Wiring Issues Sometimes, the fixture, the bulb, and the switch may all be in good, working condition, but the wiring is to blame for the flickering lights. The wires could be worn or damaged, but it’s more likely that they are loose, causing an intermittent connection, which results in a flicker. Solution: With the power turned off, inspect the wiring and all relevant connections, including those at the switch, circuit breaker, and light fixture. 6. Electrical Load Issues If you notice the lights flickering whenever other appliances turn on, such as a vacuum, dishwasher, blow dryer, or other power-hungry products, it’s likely because you’re running them on the same circuit as the lights, causing an excessive electrical load on the circuit. Whenever these devices turn on, they draw a large amount of power, which causes the current running to the lights to fade, resulting in flickering. Solution: If the circuit is overloaded, move the high-power appliance to a different circuit. For something like a blow dryer or vacuum, unplug it and plug it into a different outlet. Install a dedicated circuit for large, permanently installed appliances, such as dishwashers. When It’s Time to Call a Professional Electrician If none of these solutions resolve your flickering lights or if the lights are accompanied by buzzing sounds, burning smells, heat around the fixture or outlets, or frequently tripping breakers, contact a professional electrician immediately. You should also consider professional help if multiple lights in your house are flickering and the issue isn’t isolated to a single fixture or circuit. If you haven’t already, a professional will likely instruct you to cut the power at the breaker until the problem can be remedied.

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    How to Seal Windows and Reduce Energy Bills

    ByKamron Sanders

    Poorly sealed windows allow heat to enter your home during the summer and cool drafts during the winter. As a result, your HVAC unit works overtime to maintain your desired temperature, leading to high energy bills. Here, we explain how to seal windows with various materials and methods including caulk, weather stripping, plastic shrink-wrap, and draft stoppers. While replacing your windows with new energy-efficient ones is the most effective way to stop the draft and lower your utility bill, it’s not always an option. Luckily, there are several ways to seal your existing windows to help prevent air transfer between the interior and exterior. Caulk Around the Windows Caulking around windows is sometimes all it takes to reduce their draftiness. It’s also one of the most cost-effective ways to seal a window, as caulk is relatively inexpensive. Caulk is ideal for filling small cracks around various window components. It can create a watertight and airtight seal that remains flexible for years after application. This flexibility ensures the caulk’s seal won’t crack due to natural expansion and contraction. If your window has gaps larger than 1/2 inch, caulk may not work well. If these gaps are deep, expanding foam insulation designed for window and door use may be necessary to fill the cavity. Once the foam is fully expanded, you can trim it flush using a sharp knife and cover it using a wood trim piece or a bead of caulk, whichever is more appropriate for your window. Install Weather Stripping Weather stripping is useful for sealing around the moving components of a window, such as beneath a moving sash. Whereas caulk will seal the joint, weather stripping allows you to open and close the window, sealing the gap tightly once the window is closed. Most foam weather stripping has one sticky side so it can be adhered to the fixed portion of the window without sticking to the moving one. To promote a strong bond between the foam weather stripping and the window sash, remove dust or debris, thoroughly clean the window with a degreaser, and dry the surface. Seal with Plastic Shrink-Wrap To create a temporary airtight seal around your window, look for plastic shrink-wrap window insulating kits, which include double-stick tape and sheets of plastic shrink-wrap. To seal a window using plastic shrink-wrap, follow these steps: Clean the window. Apply strips of double-stick tape on all four sides of the window frame. Cut the plastic sheeting slightly larger than the window pane. Place it on the pane, pressing it against the double-stick tape to secure it. Use a hairdryer or a heat gun on low to shrink the plastic, starting on the perimeter and moving across the shrink-wrap until it’s perfectly taut. Clean up the excess plastic using a utility knife. If you’re planning to shrink-wrap all of your windows, leave at least one window in each room uncovered for a potential fire escape. Insert Draft Stoppers Store-bought draft stoppers can be great for stopping drafts with minimal effort and without altering the window. There are various styles of draft stoppers tailored for different types of windows and doors. Many draft stoppers include two tubes that can be cut to the window’s width and then slid inside a piece of fabric. The fabric is then slid beneath the window sash. Once the window is closed, the two tubes are tightly held on each side of the window. While this style of draft stopper can be effective for windows, they are often used on doors. A more effective style of a window draft stopper is designed to stick along the bottom edge of the window sash. Once the sash is closed, the overhanging rubber material compresses against the window frame to prevent airflow. The most effortless style of draft stopper that can be used to reduce a window draft looks like a long pillow. You simply lay it at the bottom of the window to block the draft. How to Identify a Drafty Window If the source of your window draft isn’t obvious (such as a visible crack), it can be hard to pinpoint where the issue lies. Here are some useful ways to identify a window draft. Turn off any fans and other air movers. You may have difficulty identifying your draft because air is moving from sources like fans, dehumidifiers, HVAC systems, and more. Light a candle and place it next to the window. Blow the candle out and watch the smoke. The candle smoke will blow if it’s positioned near the draft. This method may take a few tries and it can be helpful to trace the window’s border with the candle. Some lightweight curtains will move when blown by a window draft. Drafty windows are prone to condensation buildup. If you have just one window with condensation on it, there’s a good chance it’s the source of the draft.

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